YARN DYE
Irangi ry'imyenda bivuga inzira yo kubanza gusiga irangi cyangwa filament, hanyuma ugakoresha umugozi wamabara kugirango ubohe umwenda. Iratandukanye nuburyo bwo gucapa no gusiga irangi aho umwenda usize irangi nyuma yo kuboha. Imyenda irangi irangi ikubiyemo gusiga irangi mbere yo kuboha, bikavamo uburyo bwihariye. Amabara yimyenda irangi irangi akenshi iba afite imbaraga kandi nziza, hamwe nibishusho byakozwe binyuze mumabara atandukanye.
Bitewe no gukoresha irangi ry'imyenda, imyenda irangi irangi ifite ibara ryiza kuko irangi rifite kwinjira cyane.
Imirongo hamwe nimyenda yamabara yijimye mumashati ya polo akenshi bigerwaho hifashishijwe tekinoroji-irangi. Mu buryo nk'ubwo, ubudodo bwa cationic mu mwenda wa polyester nabwo ni uburyo bwo gusiga irangi.
Enzyme Gukaraba
Gukaraba Enzyme ni ubwoko bwa enzyme ya selile iyo, mubihe bimwe na pH nubushyuhe, bitesha agaciro fibre yimyenda. Irashobora gushira buhoro buhoro ibara, ikuraho ibinini (gukora "uruhu rwamashaza"), kandi ikagera kubworoshye burambye. Itezimbere kandi drape na luste yimyenda, ikemeza kurangiza neza kandi idashira.
Kurwanya ibinini
Fibre ya sintetike ifite imbaraga nyinshi kandi irwanya cyane kunama, bigatuma fibre idashobora kugwa kandi ikora ibinini hejuru yibicuruzwa. Nyamara, fibre ya sintetike ifite ububobere buke kandi ikunda kubyara amashanyarazi ahamye mugihe cyumye no guterana amagambo. Amashanyarazi ahamye atera fibre ngufi hejuru yigitambara guhagarara, bigatera uburyo bwo gusya. Kurugero, polyester ikurura byoroshye ibice byamahanga kandi ibinini bikora byoroshye kubera amashanyarazi ahamye.
Kubwibyo, dukoresha polimike ya enzymatique kugirango dukureho microfibers isohoka hejuru yintambara. Ibi bigabanya cyane fuzz yubuso bwimyenda, bigatuma umwenda woroshye no kwirinda ibinini. .
Mubyongeyeho, kongeramo resin kumyenda bigabanya fibre kunyerera. Muri icyo gihe, resin iringaniza ihuza kandi igateranya hejuru yintambara, bigatuma fibre ya fibre ifatira kumutwe no kugabanya ibinini mugihe cyo guterana. Kubwibyo, itezimbere neza imyenda yo kurwanya ibinini.
Brushing
Kwoza ni uburyo bwo kurangiza imyenda. Harimo gukwega imyenda hamwe nigitambaro cyizengurutse ingoma ya mashini yoza, ihindura imiterere yimyenda kandi igakora umwijima usa nuruhu rwamashaza. Kwoza rero, bizwi kandi nka PeachSkin kurangiza kandi umwenda wogejwe witwa umwenda wa PeachSkin cyangwa umwenda wogejwe.
Ukurikije ubukana bwifuzwa, gukaraba birashobora gushyirwa mubyiciro nko gukaraba cyane, gukaraba hagati, cyangwa gukaraba byoroheje. Uburyo bwo koza bushobora gukoreshwa muburyo ubwo aribwo bwose bwimyenda, nk'ipamba, ivangwa rya polyester-ipamba, ubwoya, ubudodo, na fibre polyester, hamwe no kuboha imyenda itandukanye harimo imyenda isanzwe, twill, satin, na jacquard. Kwoza birashobora kandi guhuzwa hamwe nuburyo butandukanye bwo gusiga irangi no gucapa, bikavamo gusasa imyenda yogejwe, gusiga irangi ryanditseho imyenda, imyenda ya jacquard yogejwe, hamwe nigitambara gisize irangi.
Kwoza byongera imyenda yoroheje, ubushyuhe, hamwe nubwiza bwubwiza muri rusange, bigatuma iruta imyenda idakarabye mubijyanye no guhumurizwa neza no kugaragara, cyane cyane bikoreshwa mugihe cy'itumba.
Birababaje
Ku myenda ya sintetike, akenshi iba ifite urumuri rwiza kandi rudasanzwe kubera ubworoherane bwimiterere ya fibre synthique. Ibi birashobora guha abantu igitekerezo cyo guhendwa cyangwa kutamererwa neza. Kugira ngo iki kibazo gikemuke, hari inzira yitwa dulling, igamije cyane cyane kugabanya ububengerane bukabije bwimyenda yubukorikori.
Gukuramo birashobora kugerwaho hifashishijwe fibre cyangwa fibre. Gukuramo fibre birasanzwe kandi bifatika. Muri ubu buryo, titanium dioxyde de dulling yongeweho mugihe cyo gukora fibre synthique, ifasha koroshya no gutunganya kamere ya fibre polyester.
Ku rundi ruhande, guhindagura imyenda, bikubiyemo kugabanya imiti ya alkaline mu gusiga amarangi no gucapa inganda za polyester. Ubu buvuzi butera ubuso butaringaniye kuri fibre yoroshye, bityo bikagabanya urumuri rukabije.
Mugukuraho imyenda yubukorikori, urumuri rwinshi rugabanuka, bikavamo ibintu byoroshye kandi bisanzwe. Ibi bifasha kuzamura ubuziranenge muri rusange no guhumuriza imyenda.
Kurimbuka / Kuririmba
Gutwika hejuru ya fuzz kumyenda birashobora kunoza ububengerane no koroshya, kongera imbaraga zo kurwanya ibinini, kandi bigaha umwenda ibyiyumvo bikomeye kandi byubatswe.
Igikorwa cyo gutwika hejuru ya fuzz, kizwi kandi nko kuririmba, gikubiyemo kunyuza umwenda byihuse binyuze mumuriro cyangwa hejuru yicyuma gishyushye kugirango ukureho fuzz. Ubuso bworoshye kandi bwuzuye fuzz bwaka vuba kubera kuba hafi yumuriro. Nyamara, umwenda ubwawo, kuba mwinshi kandi kure yumuriro, ushyuha gahoro gahoro kandi ugenda mbere yo kugera aho gutwika. Mugukoresha ibipimo bitandukanye byo gushyushya hagati yimyenda nigitambaro, gusa fuzz irashya nta kwangiza umwenda.
Binyuze mu kuririmba, fibre fuzzy hejuru yigitambara ikurwaho neza, bikavamo isura nziza kandi isukuye hamwe nuburyo bwiza bwamabara hamwe na vibrancy. Kuririmba kandi bigabanya gusuka kwa fuzz no kwegeranya, byangiza uburyo bwo gusiga irangi no gucapa kandi bishobora gutera irangi, gucapa inenge, hamwe numuyoboro wafunze. Byongeye kandi, kuririmba bifasha kugabanya impengamiro ya polyester cyangwa polyester-ipamba ivanze n'ibinini ikora ibinini.
Muncamake, kuririmba bitezimbere isura igaragara nimikorere yimyenda, ikayiha ububengerane, bworoshye, kandi bwubatswe.
Gukaraba silicon
Gukaraba silicon kumyenda bikorwa kugirango bigerweho zimwe mungaruka zavuzwe haruguru. Korohereza ibintu muri rusange ni ibintu bifite ubworoherane hamwe no kumva amaboko n'amavuta. Iyo zifatiye hejuru ya fibre, zigabanya ubukana bwo guterana hagati ya fibre, bikavamo ingaruka zo gusiga no koroshya. Bimwe mu byoroshya birashobora kandi guhuza hamwe nitsinda rito kuri fibre kugirango bigerweho.
Iyoroshya ikoreshwa mu gukaraba silicon ni emulsiya cyangwa micro-emulsiya ya polydimethylsiloxane n'ibiyikomokaho. Itanga ikiganza cyiza cyoroshye kandi cyoroshye kumva kumyenda, yuzuza amavuta karemano yatakaye mugihe cyo gutunganya no guhumura inzira ya fibre naturel, bigatuma ikiganza cyunvikana neza. Byongeye kandi, koroshya gukurikiza fibre karemano cyangwa sintetike, itezimbere ubworoherane nimbaraga, itezimbere ukuboko, kandi ikazamura imikorere yimyenda binyuze mubiranga ibintu byoroshye.
Mercerize
Mercerize nuburyo bwo kuvura ibikomoka kumpamba (harimo ubudodo nigitambara), bikubiyemo kubishira mumuti wa soda ya caustic hamwe no koza soda ya caustic mugihe uhangayitse. Iyi nzira yongerera uburinganire bwa fibre, itezimbere uburinganire bwimiterere nibintu byiza, kandi byongera ubukana bwurumuri rugaragara, biha umwenda ubudodo bumeze nkubudodo.
Ibicuruzwa bya fibre fibre bimaze igihe kinini bizwi kubera kwifata neza kwinshi, intoki zoroshye, no gukorakora neza iyo uhuye numubiri wumuntu. Ariko, ibitambara bitavuwe neza birashobora kugabanuka, inkeke, n'ingaruka mbi zo gusiga. Mercerize irashobora kunoza ibyo bitagenda neza mubicuruzwa by'ipamba.
Ukurikije intego ya mercerize, irashobora kugabanywamo umugozi mercerize, umwenda mercerize, na mercerize kabiri.
Kurangiza ubudodo bivuga ubwoko bwihariye bwimyenda yipamba ikoreshwa cyane ya soda ya caustic soda cyangwa ivangwa na ammonia yamazi mugihe habaye impagarara, igateza imbere imyenda yayo mugihe igumana ibiranga ipamba.
Kurangiza imyenda bikubiyemo kuvura imyenda ya pamba mugihe uhangayitse hamwe na soda ya caustic yibanda cyane cyangwa ammonia yamazi, bikavamo urumuri rwiza, kwihangana cyane, no kugumana imiterere.
Double mercerize bivuga inzira yo kuboha ipamba ya mercerize mumyenda hanyuma ugashyiraho umwenda. Ibi bitera fibre fibre kubyimba bidasubirwaho muri alkali yibanze, bikavamo umwenda woroshye hamwe nubudodo bumeze nkubudodo. Byongeye kandi, itezimbere imbaraga, imiti igabanya ubukana, hamwe nuburinganire buringaniye kurwego rutandukanye.
Muri make, mercerize nuburyo bwo kuvura butezimbere isura, intoki, nigikorwa cyibicuruzwa by ipamba, bigatuma bisa nubudodo mubijyanye no kurabagirana.
SHAKA UMUSARURO
IZINA RY'INGENZI.:5280637.9776.41
FABRIC COMPOSITION & WEIGHT:Ipamba 100%, 215gsm, Pique
UMUTI WA FABRIC:Mercerized
GARMENT FINISH:N / A.
PRINT & EMBROIDERY:Ubudozi bwa Flat
UMURIMO:N / A.
IZINA RY'INGENZI.:018HPOPIQLIS1
FABRIC COMPOSITION & WEIGHT:65% polyester, 35% ipamba, 200gsm, Pique
UMUTI WA FABRIC:Irangi
GARMENT FINISH:N / A.
PRINT & EMBROIDERY:N / A.
UMURIMO:N / A.
IZINA RY'INGENZI.:232.EW25.61
FABRIC COMPOSITION & WEIGHT:50% ipamba na 50% polyester, 280gsm, terry yubufaransa
UMUTI WA FABRIC:Brushed
GARMENT FINISH:
PRINT & EMBROIDERY:Ubudozi
UMURIMO:N / A.